Bali Barat National Park

Object : national park
Regency : buleleng
Site : about 3 hours drive from denpasar


The Land

The 76,312-hectare (777-square-km) Taman Nasional Bali Barat, with its complex of habitats including forests and coral-fringed islands, is the wild side of Bali. Since Bali is such a densely populated, intensively cultivated island, very little of Bali's forests are left.

To preserve a portion of the island as a wilderness zone, as a buffer against human settlements that border it, and as a resource for forest products, Bali Barat National Park in Bali's western end was officially gazetted as one of Indonesia's 10 national parks in 1984. The park today encompasses 10% of Bali's total land area. If managed wisely, the tourism potential of its adjacent marine reserve is almost unlimited.

The park is managed by the Indonesian Forestry Service (PHPA), which limits and controls public access. Bali Barat National Park was initially established by the Dutch in 1941 to protect the endemic white starling of Bali (Loucospar rothschildi), and the last of the island's wild 'banteng'.

The Balinese subspecies of the Asian tiger may also have roamed the area, but by 1941 its existence was doubtful. Despite rumors to the contrary, the last animal was probably shot in the 1930s.

Though not nearly as rugged as the areas surrounding the higher mountains of eastern Bali, primary monsoon forests (about 50,000 hectares) are found along the watershed on the southern slopes of the mountains Sangiang, Merbuk, Musi, and Patas.

None of these mountains, lying in the eastern and central areas of the park, are higher than 1,500 meters. Gunung Patas gained international notoriety in April 1974 when a Pan-Am 707 jet slammed into its side, killing all 107 people aboard.

The park's southern sector is watered by clear streams and traversed by footpaths that promise steep but relatively easy walking through forested hills. The park's northern sector is much drier than the south, the habitat of scrub acacia, palm savanna, dense mangrove swamps, and unspoiled reefs.

On the way to the park from the east, immediately before the park's entrance on the right (21-km northeast of Cekik) is Banyuwedang Hotsprings, believed to posses curative powers. A well is the source of the sulphurous water. You bathe in a wooden shelter close to the mangroves. From the highway walk or drive 900 meters to the gate, pay, then walk 100 meters to the springs.

Climate

The north coast of Bali is generally drier than the south, especially between May and November. The coast of Cape Prapat Agung is exposed to rainy season squalls, though the cape shelters Pulau Menjangan and Teluk Terima. At sea level, temperatures are high throughout the year. Hill temperature inland varies according to elevation and tree cover.

Fauna

The park offers rusa (deer), 'kancil', barking deer, long-tailed macaques, civets, monkeys, wild boars, and perhaps 30 or so 'banteng' (Bos javanicus)-living ancestors of today's deer-like Balinese cattle.

The park's profuse and beautiful birdlife includes the endangered Bali starling (popularly known as jalak bali) and sea and shore birds, the most conspicuous being brown boobies and lesser frigate birds. Two species of terns nest in large numbers on a sandy bay at the entrance of Teluk Lumpur ('Mud Bay'), while the boobies and frigates roost on Pulau Burung farther east.

An extremely rare species, Bali's only remaining endemic creature, the Bali starling (jalak putih in Indonesian) averages 23 cm in length and features black wingtips and tail, silky white feathers, and brilliant blue rings around its eyes. Not to be confused with the black-winged starling which has black wings and tail.

It lives in groups of two or three in the acacia scrub and dry monsoon forests on the north coast of Cape Prapat Agung. Using birds from zoos on Java for breeding, conservationists hope to increase the small number of birds surviving in the wild.

To see live specimens, visit the Bali Starling Recovery Project in Tegal Bunder or at Teluk Kelor, north of Batu Licin, to the east. Get a 'bemo' from Labuhan Lalang to Sumberklampok, then turn right and walk two km to the Recovery Project at Tegal Bunder. When you come to some buildings, turn right and walk another 200 meters to the aviary.

Take off your shoes and socks, walk down a hall, and look through the tiny windows of the aviary. The birds live in the trees and are fed from big buckets of bugs. There are only nine birds and perhaps 50 more in the jungle.

Hawksbill turtles and 10-meter-long toothless whale sharks have been sighted along the reserve's north coast, and whales and dolphins migrate via Selat Bali between Java and Bali. More like a forest than a jungle, the park offers exceptional walking and first-class panoramas. Day trips can be arranged by the PHPA office in Labuhan Lalang. Part of the walk is cross-country with no trails. At times you have to crawl through undergrowth and use paths frequented by wild ox and deer. Birds are everywhere-incredible surround sound.

An interesting walk is the 25-km-long track along the coast of Cape Prapat Agung (highest elev. 310 meters). This cape is cut off from the rest of the reserve by the main Singaraja-Gilimanuk road, as well as by settlements and coconut, teak, and eucalyptus plantations. Into this wilderness bring lots of water as it can get extremely hot. Make sure your guide is a good birdspotter (the park has 160 species) and bring binoculars.

Information and Permits

The best info on hiking and guides, a small exhibit, scale model of the park, and possibly even maps can be had from the park headquarters in Cekik, three km south of Gilimanuk at the junction of the road from Singaraja with the road from Denpasar.

Dark green 'bemo' from Denpasar's Ubung Station pass Cekik on their way to Gilimanuk. The park headquarters is open Mon.-Thurs. 0800-1400, Friday 0800-1100, and Saturday 0800-1200. The PHPA maintains a branch office at Labuhan Lalang (12 km east of Cekik) with a useful relief map of the park. Open 0800-1800.

You must have a permit, and be accompanied by a guide to enter the reserve plus the cost of vehicles or boats. One day permits and guides are available at the park headquarters in Cekik and the ranger station at Labuhan Lalang, as well as the Department of Forestry (PHPA) office in Denpasar (Jalan Suwung 40, Box 320). You don't need a permit to drive through the park from Singaraja to Gilimanuk road; get to Labuhan Lalang by public 'bemo' from Lovina.

A typical walk lasts five hours. Early or the late in the day is the best time to see wildlife. Dress like your guide: jeans and long sleeves for protection from thorns and snags. Take a lunch and sit quietly in the forest to hear the symphony.

Lovina Beach

Object : sunset, dolphin, coral reef, temple, hot sulfur pools
Regency : Buleleng
Site : about 12 km from Singaraja


Laze on the beach and watch the sky turn red, yellow, and orange as the sun sinks behind the towering volcanoes of Java, which appear on the horizon rising purple from the ocean. At night fishing fleets head out in their 'jukung', luring fish into nets with kerosene pressure lanterns swaying and glowing yellow all along the waterfront. You can join them for a two- or three-hour late afternoon trip. Or hire a freelancer and go out on a sailing excursion, with sailor.

The bay is great for swimming. Lovina's warm sea laps lazily at the gray-sand shore during the dry season, quite tame compared to the volatile southern coasts. Although a little dirty, the wide expanses of sand are good for sunning (especially at Kalibukbuk), and beach masseurs are available.

For a reef so close to the beach, the snorkeling, diving, and boat fishing are above average. The docile sea and the shallow lagoon make this coast ideal for beginners and young divers to safely explore the specialized marine communities of plant and animals, which live in the intertidal zone.

You don't need to venture far for good snorkeling, but the best spots are two to three km from shore where the sea is shallow. The best dive sites lie closer to Singaraja, where the reef juts farther out from the beach. You can see fascinating reef life right from the boat just by sticking your head underwater.

When snorkeling you'll feel as if you're swimming inside an aquarium with moray eels, tropical fish, and pastel corals. As the offshore water is over your head, use the boat as your island. Wear sneakers, and watch out for the sharp coral, sea urchins, and catfish-like fish with poisonous spines. Get used to wearing your mask in shallow water before venturing out deeper waters. Start early before the water gets cloudy.

The sand is so dark it can be difficult to see the bottom. In February or March no snorkeling or dolphin trips are offered due to heavy rain and dirty water. The skippers wait on the beach for customers. They may provide snorkeling gear. You can rent 'perahu' from the hotels, or simply swim out to the reef.

An experience with mixed reviews is 'Breakfast with the Dolphins'. It's easy to buy a ticket the day before from boys on the beach. The length of the tour varying from 2.5 to three hours, depending on season, boat, captain, and luck. Determine in advance how many hours you're going to spend snorkeling versus hours spent dolphin-chasing.

If you don't, you may end up having to bargain on the boat, paying an additional charge to see dolphins. When you buy your ticket, give the vendor your room number and someone will wake you with a knock on your door 15 minutes before the predawn departure for the 30- to 60-minute trip to dolphin territory (one to two km).

Dolphin-watching is very competitive, with dozens of boats going out at dawn. Most of the motorized boats can fit four to six people. Big wooden outriggers can carry up to seven people and are less likely to pitch and roll than smaller craft. If you're lucky (about 75% of the time) for a few miraculous moments your boat will be surrounded by hundreds of leaping, flipping, blowing dolphins.

Sometimes you find yourself in the midst of 500 or even 1000 dolphins. Watch for different species, particularly the large, slow swimmers that can weigh up to a ton. In any event you'll get a boat ride, tea and 'pisang goreng' breakfast, and snorkeling on the return trip. Don't let the boatman go in before the agreed upon time.

A good place to obtain diving information and arrange trips is Spice Dive (tel./fax 62362-23305) which has an office in Arya's restaurant in Kalibukbuk. Staff is conscientious, honest, experienced, and properly qualified.

Scuba (PADI) certification courses, at all levels, are also offered. Baruna (tel. 62362-23775), on the main road in Kalibukbuk, rents snorkeling gear by the hour, offers surf canoes, and sponsors cruises to see dolphins, snorkeling trips and Sunset Cruises, but no courses. Make reservations at your hotel.

Actually, Lovina Beach was the first seaside resort to appear in the mid-70s, taking its name from a restaurant that operated from 1953 to 1960 where Permata Cottages is today. Anak Agung Panji Tisna, the ruler of northern Bali, named this stretch of coast after the English word 'love' in 1953. He is buried today not far from the first hotel he founded, Tasik Madu, 'Sea of Honey'. The few 'losmen' that existed in the sleepy early 1970s were demolished in a 1976 earthquake.

The resort began anew and during the 1980s, new 'losmen' and beach inns appeared. Lovina has since become the generic term for a whole line of six small villages and palm-fringed beaches that it has, touristically speaking, devoured. From east to west, these include: Pemaron, Tukadmungga, Anturan, Kalibubuk strip, Kaliasem and Temukus.

The strip starts at about the six-km mark west of Singaraja to about five km past Kaliasem. Kalibukbuk has the highest concentration while the fishing villages of Anturan and Temukus are less densely packed with restaurants and accommodations and thus are quieter.

There's a very helpful tourist office on the beach side of the main Singaraja-Seririt road in Kalibukbuk. Open Mon.-Thurs. 0700-1730, Friday 0700-1300, Saturday 0700-1730. A clinic lies south of the Lovina Beach Hotel in Kaliasem. The tourist office can recommend doctors. The police share the same building as the tourist office.

Getting There

• On arriving from Kuta, the shuttle bus lets passengers off at Perama Tourist Service in Anturan, where passengers are taken to their hotels free of charge. The Perama shuttle leaves Kuta for Lovina at 0830 and 1600 (4.5 hours via Ubud).
• Public 'bemo' from Denpasar's Ubung Terminal arrive at the Banyuasri station. From there hop on a 'bemo' to Lovina. Tell the driver where you're staying and he'll drop you off as close as possible to it.
• If coming from Amlapura, the Isuzu bus arrives at Terminal Penarukan to the east of Singaraja. From there get a 'bemo' through Singaraja to Banyuasri Station on the western edge of the city. From dawn to dusk 'bemo' travel regularly from this station to Lovina on a road lined with huge trees and emerald-green rice paddies.
• If coming from Surabaya on a long-distance bus, ask the driver to let you off along the highway at either Lovina or Kalibukbuk.